Hello,

I currently pull a 3H Titan Classic with my 2003 Silverado 1500 Ext Cab. 4x4 Z71. I added Supersprings and everything works quite well.(I live in Maryland) I'm considering purchasing a 2006/07 F150 Supercrew 4x4 short box. Fords towing guide says the following regarding towing with the short box:

(2) While F-150 SuperCrew (138.5" Wb) and SuperCab (132.5" Wb) 5½' box will accept a fifth-wheel hitch, current fifth-wheel trailer designs are not compatible with these models. Any questions should be referred to the trailer dealer/manufacturer.

http://www.fordvehicles.com/assets/pdf/towing/07RVf-series9-18.pdf


The wheelbase of the Ford Supercrew is 4.5 inches longer than my Silverado. Secondly, Ford towing guide rates the F150 Supercrew with 150" wheelbase at 9100 LBS for fifth wheel towing, but doesn't give a figure for the 138.5" wheelbase. The estimated weight of my trailer is 5200 lbs., add 3300 lbs for horses equals 8500 lbs. which leaves 600 lbs for people/gear.

Questions:

1) To get the F150 to tow safely, is it going to be as easy as getting a gooseneck hitch which fits, and a SB1 Popup hitch extender?
2) Since there is no rating in Fords towing guide, but they supply aforementioned footnote for 138.5" wheelbase, am I correct in assumming that it will tow 9100 lbs?
3) Can you point me pics of a F150 Supercrew doing some gooseneck towing.

Thanks in advance.

Ron

Hello Ron…
First the 9100 pounds you’re assuming is based on the GCWR of 15,000 pounds. So you’re looking at purchasing a 5.4 L with the 3.73 axle. Right?

Sounds like you are very close to the limit. You must subtract from the max trailer weight, the weight of any non-required options (even the stereo), passengers and cargo, AND the weight of the GN hitch. The key understanding is the GCWR of 15,000 pounds. Fully loaded, your whole truck and trailer rig must not be more than 15,000 #. The next critical weights are the axle loadings. You will notice that Ford puts in a footnote not to exceed the GAWR. The GN extender may put more of the hitch weight on the rear axle than it should take. The whole point of a GN is to place the trailer’s connection between the front and rear wheels of the truck. That is a key part of the stability.

IF you can stay within the weights, the only issue is the trailer and cab clearances when turning.

Thanks Hosspuller.

Yes, I would get the 5.4L with the 3.73 limited slip differential.

Follow up questions:

Although the GN extender places the trailer to the rear of bed to solve truck cab / trailer nose clearance problem, since the GN extender attaches to the GN ball which is located between the front and rear axles, the trailer tongue weight should still be over the GN ball. Right?

I've read info somewhere that the F150's bed walls and tailgate height may be a problem. Can you elaborate on that?

Also, looking at getting the B&W turnover ball hitch, since it attaches to existing holes in the frame. Any comments on the use of this hitch?


Thanks for your insightS.

Ron

quote:

Originally posted by Darkhorseman:
Follow up questions:

Although the GN extender places the trailer to the rear of bed to solve truck cab / trailer nose clearance problem, since the GN extender attaches to the GN ball which is located between the front and rear axles, the trailer tongue weight should still be over the GN ball. Right?

I've read info somewhere that the F150's bed walls and tailgate height may be a problem. Can you elaborate on that?

Also, looking at getting the B&W turnover ball hitch, since it attaches to existing holes in the frame. Any comments on the use of this hitch?

Be aware that GN extenders come in two flavors. One mounts on the trailer and the other mounts in the truck. (I have a Long bed truck) The trailer mounted type moves the trailer nose back but keeps the weight forward. The truck mount moves the ball and the weight back. Your axles are close to the max. I would recommend the trailer mount type for your truck.

Bed wall and tailgate height are an issue when traveling over RR tracks, road cuts, driveways and any other elevation changes. The bottom of the GN contacts the top of the tailgate or bedrails. I would consider 7 inches of clearance a minimum. Even with 7 inches, a friend crushed his new truck's tailgate on his maiden trailer voyage.

I DIY'd the B+W hitch. It's popular because it's simple and robust. No mechanism to jam or fail. The hardest part was using the 4 inch hole saw on a pristine new truck bed. Measure twice, cut once. Took me about three hours. Could do it again in half the time. Lifting the hitch plate to the hole was weighty. A 2x4 across the bed rails with a rope through the hole was the solution. Just lift one end of the 2x4 & it lifted the plate into position for bolting.

Hosspuller,

I'm getting the GN extender which attaches to the trailer. It will also help with bed wall clearance beacuse it some height adjustment functionality. Thanks for the tip on the B&W hitch. I'm confident the B&W hitch and the Gn extender from Popup will be a dependable configuration.

Thanks again.

Ron

One more tip. Keep all truck bed cargo away from the Pop-up hitch. If something gets between the bedwall and the hitch when you're turning, the swing of the hitch extender will either crush it or push it through the bed wall.