Sent: Friday, January 12, 2001 10:32 PM
Subject: truck for slide-in camper

Kent-
What a great site! Nice job...
I'm new to trucks & hauling, but I've been scouring the internet doing 'research' cuz I want to buy a used truck that will haul a light slide-in camper within the next month or so. At first I thought I wanted a F250 SD, but after learning about GVWR, I don't think the F250 is a viable option. Am I correct in that assumption? So now I'm looking into the F350 SD Crew Cab w/ the V10. Man, what a truck! Don't think I can afford anything newer than the '99.5, but I'm finding that there just aren't as many used ones out there - compared to the F250's. Is that because there just aren't as many sold? Do people hang onto them longer? Or, am I just not looking in the right places? Any help appreciated...thanks in advance. B.R.

Hi Bill,

F250's are a thousand bucks cheaper. In 1997 and back the F250 and F350 had different springs and axles. Now they don't. Ford says the F350 has 1100#'s more GVWR. But there isn't any difference in the trucks. Count the leaf springs, measure anything you want. Ford puts magic springs on the F350 and charges you $1000 more. In the 99 model Ford had them all jacked up 3 more inches and would lower them one time under warranty if they were too tall for you. In 2000 and 2001 they lowered the F250 but not the F350. I guess it makes them look bigger or something. So if you buy a truck with some factory warranty left, the extra GVWR may help with warranty issues but if you look at trailer towing capacity between the F250 and the F350 they are exactly the same for a pull type bumper trailer and within 100#'s on a fifth wheel trailer. What does that tell you. Now don't get me wrong, I like the Super Duty Ford's. I just want to get something for the extra cost on the F350. If you go to a F350 dually then you do get one size bigger axles and brakes though. When Ford changed the Super Duty 99 model and newer, they made the springs longer which gave them a dramatically better ride. But they also give the trucks more axle travel especially when hauling a heaver camper. I recommend using air bags on the rear axle. Even with the factory camper package, the truck just dips too much with a heavy camper on it. Much more than the older models. The air bags on the axles are the best, and cheapest way I know to solve this. Good Luck, Kent (MrTruck
#13 Sent: Saturday, November 10, 2001 2:19 PM

Like your stuff. Please put me on your newsletter list. That Sturman (Sp?) valve sounds fetching. Is there any more news on the subject? Nonetheless, with such major, if not revolutionary, changes in diesel mechanics, it seems to me jury will be out for several years after its inception, if it ever does make it to market. Don't ya think? No? Yes? Funny to have read about it at this point in my life when my intentions are to buy a vehicle for the long terms--like 20 years. And a diesel was on the top of my list! So now I have to ask: in light of this news about big changes in diesel technology, maybe I should just get a less expensive used interim vehicle and wait out the new technology? What to do? What to do? Any thoughts on this conundrum, Kent?? Thanks Russell

Hi Russell, thanks for reading my web site. I can't get Ford to comment on the new valve. So I'm sure a lot of marketing is being planned around the new diesel. The Sturman Valve was developed for the Apollo space mission. That dates it back a couple of decades. Mercedes Benz is working on something similar. The technology is less complicated than the valve train used today in engines. The computer than runs the valve and the electrical current running to the magnetic side of the valve will determine the dependability. The computers that messed up the luxury cars in the early eighties have been replaced with very reliable ones today. I wouldn't have a problem buying a new diesel today.

The new ones that should be out in the middle of the 2003 marketing year, (spring of 2004), will be quieter, smaller, more powerful and get better fuel mileage. It's going to be an exciting time in diesels. The Ford will come out first with the valve and then Mercedes could have their valve in Dodge trucks by 2007. In Europe, mainly because of the cost of fuel, diesels are everywhere. Cars and trucks with diesel engines are common. I suspect that is our future here. Some of the hybrid vehicles have electrical motors that are powered by diesels. One option would be to buy a diesel now and trade it off in 4 years. There will still be a market for used reliable diesels. And if you put on more than 80,000 miles in those 4 years, you can even pay for the extra cost of the diesel engine with saved fuel economy. Isn't this fun? All these exciting choices! Good Truck'n, MT

#12
Sent: Tuesday, January 16, 2001 5:41 PM
Subject: "Sweet" years on used F250's

> Kent,
> I am looking for an F250 for camping, commuting, hauling stuff around our mini farm and possibly snow plowing. My budget limits me to older vehicles and I don't mind doing 90% of the maintenance myself. So given all that what's your recommendation on years and models to shoot for? Oh, it needs to be xtra cab and I have my heart set on diesel.
> If you have a mailing list please add me to it.
>Many thanks, M.

Hi Matt,

93 was the first year of the turbo in the 7.3 diesel. So if you are going back that far get the 94. The Power Stroke, with direct injection and electronic fuel pump, came out the end of 94, so get a 95. I would also get the 5-speed manual in the older models. The C-6 and E4OD automatic transmissions were great for gasoline engines, but the diesel without a full
waste gate on the turbo and the torque was too much for the earlier auto's. In the 99 and newer, Power Strokes have full waste gates and the 4R100 has a larger torque converter and 2 bigger pumps and better bearings. If you go back into the 80's you will be better off to get a Cummins in the Dodge. But especially in Dodge get the 4 or 5-speed manual transmission. You will probably have to replace the box if it was used much on an older Dodge. Hopefully you will find a mid 90's F350 Super Cab that was just used to pull an RV occasionally. The Ford F350 in 97 and back had the mono beam axle and overload springs on the rear axle. The F250 had a twin traction beam axle which is hard to align. Be sure to check out the radiator and cooling system. The older diesels needed special care on cooling maintenance. Good Luck. Kent (MrTruck)

#16 Sent: Saturday, November 17, 2001 3:00 PM
Subject: Payload of F250 vrs. F350

Hello Mr Truck person,
Appreciated your response to my last prod. Please indulge me uno mas. Been doing a lot of careful homework lately. Here is what I come up with. Of course, Keemosabe, this is all gonna finish with my request for your feedback. Now having said that, Ford specs out the '02 trucks thusly: Front Axle (rating @ ground): 5200 Lbs for both F250 & F350; Rear axle: 6,084 (F250); 6,830 (F350). Both vehicles with Single rear wheels. Springs are APPARENTLY the same in both. Curb weight for both vehicle appears to be within 5 lbs of each other. Oddly enough the F250 weighs in at 7005 lbs with 4 speed and diesel; F350: 7000 lbs. Simple math can verify these figures using Ford's published figures, assuming curb weight (as Ford defines it) is GVWR minus max payload. (By the way, same simple calculations show weight of diesel to be 595 lbs.)

Something else to factor in: Max payload for F250 is published to be: 1795 lbs; F350: 2930 (4 speed w/ diesel) Now, if all the above lines up, where's the beef?? Surely with your close ties with Ford you have approached them on the matter. How can they reconcile this issue? Regarding the F350, where does the heavier rating for the rear axle come from? The increased payload?? Is this possible in terms of mechanics alone? What could they have done to effect these increases w/o adding weight? I, for one, would like to see this issue brought to a conclusion one way or the other that we can stop the speculation: are we looking in the throat of a hoax, perhaps, where Ford got caught up in an unsolvable engineering/production issue relative to constraints based on time and money and the result is identical models, but for name only, OR is there a simple, reasonable explanation? So what DOES Ford say, Kent? An has there been any further light shed on the this mystery since you last addressed the matter? Maintain, Russ

Hi Russell, Several places in the emails that are posted on my site have I gone into detail about this issue. I truly understand how confusing it is. I'm actually the only one I've heard explain how close the F250 and F350 are. I have heard several salespeople tell people about more leafs in the springs, which isn't true, it was true in the 97 model and older. And Ford does give a different weight rating on the springs and axles but for what I don't know. And GM does the same thing. They get rapped up in have the bragging rights to more configurations. The F250 has a GVWR of 8800#'s and the F350 has a GVWR of 9900#'s. The axle rating is about 900#'s more for the F350 on the same axle. But the truth lies in the trailer tow ratings that are the same. Some places Ford posts 100# heavier fifth wheel trailer weight on the F350.

In the 97 model and older the F250 and F350 had different axles and springs but not since the new Super Duty came out in 98 as a 99 model. It's up to the manufacture to decide what weight rating to put on their axles and springs in relation to their warranties and the SAE and government guidelines. I have discussed it with Ford. They could put higher limits on axles and springs and horsepower too. And now Ford has increased horsepower and torque to keep up with GM all with computer chips. As in most marketing done by the "big boys" the truth lies in-between what they say and what specs show. I have always had a problem with the posted trailer weights from manufactures. The combined vehicle weight stays constant but to do that they give you a heavier trailer weight in combination with a lighter truck. For instants a 4x2regular cab V-10 gas engine will show under warranty being able to pull a larger trailer than a 4x4 crew cab diesel. And we know that's not true. But that's how it's figured by the manufactures.

I want a heaver truck to pull trailers to have some leverage to control the trailer. So in the end common sense beats marketing hands down! These are some of the reasons for my web site. Trucks are complicated and confusing and most people for some odd reason passed down for generations, think that the salespeople know which truck they need. NOT! Don't get discouraged, as much as I would like to change things all I can do is give my opinions and help people see the truth which is why I don't take advertising on my web site from manufactures. I do take them up on invitations to tour their plants, test drive their trucks and give them my views. Most of the weight limits manufactures put on their trucks are conservative to avoid breakdowns.

On my farm I was loaded above the weight limits most of the time. My trucks had to pay for themselves. But today in the cities with so many lanes side by side and in the mountains I stay a lot closer to the proper load limits. It's just not worth the risk and breaking an axle or burning a clutch. I've seen universal joints break and watched drive shafts bounced off the pavement and swing around coming close to hitting the fuel tanks. Now I find other ways to get my thrills!Thanks for your email. I hope my rambling explains my position. MT




Hello Kent,
Thanks very much for your input. I very much
appreciate the consideration basic to your reply. You
are too kind. You're right about salesmen. Most don't
know their bleep from a sinkhole. Wanna get confused,
ask a salesman. Sooooo . . . from your reply, I gather
you conclude that it's best to stay within recommended
allowances re payload specs, regardless of suspect
comparison relative to POSTED specs--to be safe. I
agree; 'tis better to err on the side of caution. But
that blows my plans for the slide in camper I want; Or
does it? Please toss this around and tell me
whattayathink: Camper DRY weight is 2700 lbs. On top
of wet load adjustment--(what, 300 lbs?) I'll have, 800
lbs, maybe, including my bony ass and all passengers,
and cargo. (That puts me at drive-away payload of
approx 3800 lbs, right?) The truck: F350, Crew Cab,
diesel, Long bed, 4x4, 4 speed, camper package. SINGLE
REAR WHEELS. Truck specs out with Payload package of
2,930 lbs max payload. (GVWR 9,900). That leaves me
900 lbs over the limit, right? What, air bags? Dual
rear wheels? Although posted max payload for same
truck with dual wheels is 4,120, the obvious solution,
I want to avoid this option if possible. Air bags?
Please, Kent, your feedback.

Thanks very much, padner, Russ

Hey Russell, for heavy campers I like duallies the best. They are a pain because they are 8 ft. wide. Extra tires make me feel safer. On the new Ford Super Duties, which started with the 99 models, have longer springs to improve the ride. But this also allows more spring travel. Campers are notorious for side wind. In these newer Fords, they move too much side to side with a camper. I recommend air bags on the rear. This should stabilize it. This is true whether a single or dual rear wheel. Good Luck, MT
#15 Sent: Friday, November 09, 2001 4:31 PM Subject: New Truck Question

Wonderful website! Straight forward and to the point. Nothing better than that. You're site was the first place I thought of when I came across a strange thing with a truck. My neighbor just brought home a 2002 Chevy Silverado 1/2 ton 2wd LS extended cab with 78 miles on it. Nice truck. He asked me to help him guide it into his smallish garage and then we stood around outside talking trucks etc. He noticed that the drivers side of his truck is about an inch and a half lower than the passenger side. Must be his floor out of level. Nope, it drops about 1/4 inch in 10 feet side to side. Tires low on one side? Nope. So we pulled it out, checked the floor for level and then backed the truck in and sure enough, driver's side still lower an inch and a half, front and rear. We measure at the bumpers, mirrors, door sills and the tire-to-fender clearances. The bed is square and plumb with the rest of the truck and he has nothing loaded inside or out, no aftermarket add-ons either. Surely there's a reasonable explanation. Full tank of gas maybe? It's the only thing we could think of other than something being out of whack, which is doubtful. He hopes. Anyway, just wanted to throw that your direction and again, let you know that your site is a hit for me and all the ones I pass it on to. Keep up the great job.

Randy H.

Hi Randy, Thanks for visiting my web site. The fuel tank is between the frames now, so I doubt that would make the truck lean that much. At 78 miles the springs aren't as relaxed as they will be when the truck is past break-in. On some trucks they come with plastic blocks between the springs when they are shipped from the factory to take some of the bounce out when traveling on the trains. Those are supposed to be taken out before delivery. Check to see if those were missed on the right front. If that isn't it, I would show the truck to the dealer and get it checked. That won't cost anything. Your neighbor might even get a free tank of gas for his trouble. Let me know what you find out. Thanks MT
#14 Sent: Monday, November 12, 2001 11:14 AM

Subject: Dully or not?

I'm looking for a 4x4 diesel, automatic, long box, crew Cab under $20,000 ! I had a 1996 I was going to llk at for $14,900. I have two questions; Do I really need the dully wheels to haul a heavy 11 foot Camper? What would be the best truck in the 96-98 range. My mechanic says that the GMC is the heaviest built for the job!

Thanks! Tom O.

Hi Tom, thanks for visiting my site. I would suggest a dually if your trailer weighs near 15k #'s and you drive in the mountains or dirt roads a lot. In the year range you suggest, if you are looking at a diesel, I would suggest the Ford Power Stroke over the GMC 6.5L diesel. In gas engines the Ford 7.5L and GMC 7.4L are both good engines. Dodge doesn't offer a crew cab in the heavy-duty trucks yet. I personally like the part-time 4x4 system better in Ford than the "live axle" system in GMC. The GMC also has and independent suspension in the front axle that makes the ride nicer but this gives you a lot more parts to wear out. The GMC in the 4x4 model also has CV joints like a car in the front axle. The Ford and Dodge have the universal joints which are cheaper and last longer. The CV joint has a rubber boot that keeps the dirt out but when that boot gets a hole in it, soon you can expect to replace the joint. The GMC will be cheaper, actually much cheaper if it is a diesel. GMC is now working on their new diesel engines to get out of last place, a place they have earned for decades. Good Truck'n, MT

Dec 29, 2000, 9:12 AM
>
> Mrtruck, I have just purchased a 5th wheel trailer, 35.5 feet long. The gvwr is 13,500 lbs. with dual axels. I am trying to decide which size pickup to look for. I have never pulled a rig this large. I am leaning toward the new chevy diesel engine in a 3/4 ton. I will have to use this vehicle around town also. I am also looking at the crew cab. Any info would be greatly appreciated.
> thanks, John M.
>
Hi John,

I would wait on the Chevy truck until it has been out at least a year. They all start with bugs and they sell too high the first year. They also don't have enough parts inventory if something does brake it will take along time to fix. Until the Duramax is out of diapers I would recommend the Super Duty Ford F250 or F350. You bought a big trailer. I would recommend a dually
except they are a pain to drive around town. Your trailer weight puts you at the limits of the 3/4 tons. They will pull it fine but the more options the truck has the more it weighs. The highest trailer towing capacity as warranted by the factory is a 2-wheel drive, regular cab. But that's up to you. I don't know of any manufacture who has warranty police who come out and weigh your trailer. Personally I like a heavier truck. The weight of the truck can help control the trailer, especially down hills.

Good luck and if you get an automatic remember to shut off the overdrive when you are pulling in the hills. MrTruck

Date: Thu, Oct 12, 2000, 1:33 PM
>
> I am looking into replacing my 86 F250 diesel (that I bought new) w/ a 2000 or 2001 diesel. I have always been a Ford fan but now I am torn between the Dodge and the Ford Today, a friend told me that Chevy is coming out w/ a diesel by Isuzu. Now I am wandering about the Chevy. I will be pulling a 22ft. to 26ft maybe 28ft. tag a long trailer. I not sure yet as to the length. What ever I buy I want it fully loaded w/ an auto trans. Can you give me your opinion on each of these trucks?
> Thank you,
> Robert
>
Hi Robert,

This is a big question that would take a book to give it justice, but I'll give you the condensed version. I know everyone is talking about the Duramax in the Chevy's and GMC's made with Isuzu. It sounds interesting though I worry about aluminum heads on any diesel. I would wait a couple of years to let GM get the bugs out. They all start with bugs no matter what the TV ads say. And if you are a veteran truck person, you will remember the wonderful past diesels from GM especially the 5.7L V-8 gas/diesel. Which almost single handedly eliminated diesel sales in pickup trucks in the eighties. So I'm cautious with anything new, especially GM. Even Ford with the most popular pickup truck out there, had at least 5 or 6 annoying problems in the first 6 months of their "99" Super Duty series that replaced the Heavy Duty series in 1998. Most of those Fords had the "Power Stroke V-8" badge on the front fender closer to the headlights. The second series of "99's" had the "Power Stroke Diesel" badge on the front door and were the improved model.

When it comes to recommending the best truck, everyone has their opinion and few of us humans won't let facts get in our way. When I was growing up, my dad had a model 92 Massey combine and my uncle had a John Deere model 95. And of course we thought the Massey had to be the best combine around. Then a funny thing happened. I ended up helping my uncle harvest wheat one summer. I couldn't believe how easy the John Deere was to grease and work on. Everything you worked on, was on the outside where you could get to it. The Massey had everything buried to the inside. Since you always have to work on combines, I was impressed. But you know I never could convince my dad to buy a John Deere! That's how trucks are. They keep improving and if you get the latest model, (after their first year). You will like it much better than your old model.

I've owned all three trucks, Chevy, Ford, and Dodge, pulled with all three and for about 10 years have sold all three. And right now in the model years 1999, 2000 and 2001, I would say the most improved and best overall rated truck would be the Ford Super Duty. We know the new 2001 GM has more power and torque. And I like the Allison transmission, (why didn't they do this and use their own Detroit Diesel decades ago I don't know). This combination my work well. I like the gear driven water pump on the new Isuzu diesel like on the "big rigs". Isuzu has been making trucks forever. If you look at old movies from even World War 1, you can see Isuzu buses driving the Great Wall of China in around 1918. So they do have experience. I just want to see the aluminum heads with a couple of hundred thousand miles on them. And then there's the front suspension. GM likes bushings and CV joints. Which work great on cars. On trucks I like leaf springs and universal joints. All three trucks use the same 6 speed manual transmission. Dodge has detuned their diesel with the automatic transmission. To get Dodge's highest torque and horsepower, you have to get the manual transmission. Dodge has greatly improved their truck from the Power Wagons of the seventies. And Dodge was the first to see the need for a "real" diesel engine for which I'm grateful. I do like the manifold heater verses the glow plugs found in the Cummins diesel in the Dodge. I wish all three had the factory option of an exhaust brake as the Dodge. I'm not fond of the strut suspension in the front of the Dodge though. Talk about an expensive shock absorber. If you want to compare rear suspensions, go to a sale barn sometime and see the loaded trucks. Ranchers know how to load to the max and you will see the Ford and GM's sitting fairly level. The Dodge will be the one squatting the most and have the most "aftermarket springs" added to them. I hope that since Mercedes is now involved with Dodge, that the quality of their bodies will improve. If you had a Dodge truck in the seventies or eighties, compare the boxes from then till now and you will be happy. The last really heavy duty box that Ford or GM had was 1972. All three truck builders could use improvements in their boxes now. I would hate to drop a salt block in any of them.

On the latest Ford F250, F350, F450 and F550 that began in early 1998, called the "99" model, this the 2001 being the 4th series to reach the market. They are totally different from the "97" Heavy Duty model's. Thicker frames, finally a intercooled diesel, mono-beam axles up front, (with camber adjustment finally, no more "Twin I-Beams" except on the 2-wheel drives), the only part-time 4x4 drive front axle that is "shift on the fly" you can buy from the factory, larger cab, 4-wheel disc brakes, hydraulic boosted brakes on the diesel, leaf springs on the front axle that are longer wider and arched differently, locking tailgate, finally a crank down spare tire, mirrors and side windows designed for trailers, larger windshield, a full waste gate on the turbo again, and a much improved automatic transmission that is used on 70% of the class A motor homes using a gas engine. These trucks drive like a 1/2 ton even when they are empty!

GM trucks may become the next leader depending on what Ford and Dodge do next. But I would stay with the proven winner this year. The Duramax will be in short supply this year and the Allison automatic even scarcer. And of course the first year will be the thousands "over retail sticker" year! Good luck. I can help you get whichever truck you choose.
Thanks MrTruck

Any way back to your question. If you request a quote threw the Ford Buyer Connection, it will be sent to the nearest Ford dealer near your Zip Code. You can get the Ford F250 your looking for from $500 to $1000 over invoice. You may have to order the truck to get the 5.4L V-8. Most dealers will be stocking the V-10's and Power Stroke diesels. On the truck you're describing, a F-250 XLT Super Cab short bed 4x4 with the 5.4L V-8 and 5-speed manual will actually cost around $100 less than a Ford F150 equipped
the same way. Because the F-150 5.4L V-8 only comes with an automatic, which costs more. And with the F-250 you get a full-floating rear axle. Which means twice as many bearings in the rear axle. The cab is bigger and the box is bigger. The F-250 also is the only full size pickup truck you can buy with part-time 4x4, my favorite. The F150 has a live front axle like Chevy, Dodge and
Toyota.

The reason that most truck manufactures match their biggest engines with an automatic transmission's is, #1, they had to take the Asbestos out of the clutches, #2, the computer's on board do the shifting and they do not know how to slip a clutch, #3, the torque converters double the torque coming from the flywheel and #4, the newer automatic transmissions have a lock up torque converter, so they lock up mechanically like a clutch and pressure plate. Every year higher percentages of automatic transmissions are sold. Some day in the future I wouldn't be surprised if a manual transmission will become an order only option on new trucks. I can also help you get your new F250 or Tundra. Thanks Kent (MrTruck)

This message has been edited. Last edited by: MrTruck,

Hey There

I just purchased a "new" '96 F250 7.3 turbo powerstroke diesel. I'm kind of doing things backwards here learning about diesels and the care and feeding of same a bit after the fact.
-What I've learned so far is that the EO4D transmission is the weak link along with the torgue converter. Mine had been rebuilt just prior to my buying it at 94,000 miles. I'm towing a 6000 pound travel trailer. What should I be concerned with for the longevity of my transmission/torgue converter? The truck had the towing/camper special package, but the transmission cooler doesn't look very big (4 inch by 12 inch). Should I put a bigger one in?
-I saw mention in an earlier post where you said that the cooling system is pretty critical and a bit fussy with these diesels engines. What particular things should I watch for here and what can I do for the longevity of the engine?
-And finally for now, will #2 diesel work well enough here in Spokane, WA in the winter? Occaisionally, it can get as low as -20F, but usually averages around 20F in the colder months.
-It looks like a great web sight you have going here. I look forward to your reply.....Tom

You should be OK with a 6000# trailer. It is important with a Ford diesel that the proper additive is in the radiator fluid. The green anti-freeze needs changed more often, the gold is a perminate antifreeze and still needs an additive to prevent cylinder cavitation.

You will need to blend #1 and#2 diesel in the winter. Most service stations start doing this in the fall anyway especially truck stops. #2 fuel can gel even at 20 degrees F above. At 10 degrees I'd use the block heater with a timer to turn on a hour before you need it. Be sure to cycle your glow plugs completely before you start your engine to make the glow plugs and relays last longer.