We just purchased a coachman Royal 5th wheel RV. We own a 2006 Ford F 250. Short bed. We have not yet installed a hitch for the RV. I love the gooseneck ball conversion kit and this is the route I would like to take.

Here is my question(s),
I need someone to tell me EVERYTHING I need to do to safely and comfortably tow this 5th Wheel, I am talking brake boxes, springs, superchips, hitches and adapter, and anything else.

Here are the specs on the vehicles:
F 250 super duty short bed 2006 Tow package, gvwr 9,000lb, Rear gawr 6100lb, Front gawr 3950 lb,

Coahmen royal 1999, 11094 lbs UVW.

Am I within the limits to safely tow this monster? Its my understanding its not the starting its the stopping.

Also can you reccomend installers in my area? I am planning on purchasing at least these items,
brake controller, springs, fifth wheel goose neck adapter, gooseneck turn over ball, possible an extender for the hitch, ect.

I live in central florida, near Tampa, Orlando, Ocala, and Lakeland.

Thank you for your time and cant wait to get on the road and camping!

Oh one more thing, we will also be towing (at different times) a sundowner 2 horse valulite.

Thanks!
The Stoctons

Hello Zbarx...
The first area you should check is the Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (GVWR) it is on the sticker in the door frame. Then look in your owners manual for the Combined Gross Vehicle Weight Rating (CGVWR).
Step two: Subtract the GVWR from the CGVWR. The number you get is the max trailer weight that you can tow with a fully loaded truck.

Next you'll need to look at the hitch location and the nose of your trailer. Many short bed trucks have been had their back glass or cab crushed in a sharp turn by the trailer.

Post back and we'll proceed from there.

Ok The GVWR is 9,000 lbs

I assume GCWR is the same as CGVWR which reads 16000 lbs

That equals 7,000 lbs using your formula. Which means no way can we do this? I have heard so many different stories.

Next as for the short bed I understand there are many types of conversions I can use to not shatter the back window.

Thanks

Next step:
You are most definitely under-trucked for that trailer!

The GVWR of 9,000 lbs means a "Fully Loaded with cargo and options" truck. Just you and a passenger might be 6000 pounds of truck. That leaves 10,000 pounds for the trailer. If your trailer is 11,000 pounds, you'll be over weight by 1,000 pounds. It's still do-able but YOU have to realize the limits and drive accordingly. Also, you have to keep the water tanks empty and pack lightly. No 1/2 cord of firewood in the back of the truck.

What type or brand of "conversions " are you considering to save your back glass?

http://www.mrtruck.net/popuprv.htm

These for the length.

Are you looking at a RV1 or RV2?

Be aware even with these extenders, if the trailer has a square nose, it'll still hit the truck cab. I suspect with a trailer as big as yours, it has a living area above the hitch...

yes??

Zbarx... I would suggest taking a string the same length as the distance from the trailer hitch to the widest point of the trailer nose. (tie a loop at one end) Then put the loop around the GN ball and see what part of the truck is in the way of the end of the string. It'll be a good visual check of your trailer turning radius.

The RV2 will move the trailer back 9 inches and at a 90 degree jack knive, will also put the trailer away from the truck 9 inches. What I would do is measure from the ball in the truck bed 9 inches to the left (drivers side) make an X and then back up the 5th wheel at 90 degrees to that X and see how close to the cab corner you are.